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Pump Suddenly Stop Working

  • Was the power to the equipment accidentally shut "off"? If so, turn the power back "on."
  • Is the water level low? If so, fill the pool to the standard operating water level (half way up the skimmers).
  • Have any of the valves accidentally been closed? If so, open the valves.
  • Are the baskets clean? If not, clean out the pump and skimmer baskets.
  • Is the lid properly sealed on the pump housing? If not, seal the lid properly. You may need to lubricate the lid O-ring.
  • Has the time on the time clock elapsed? If so, reset the time clock.
  • Was the power to the equipment accidentally shut "off"? If so, turn the power back "on."
  • Is the water level low? If so, fill the pool to the standard operating water level (half way up the skimmers).
  • Have any of the valves accidentally been closed? If so, open the valves.
  • Are the baskets clean? If not, clean out the pump and skimmer baskets.
  • Is the lid properly sealed on the pump housing? If not, seal the lid properly. You may need to lubricate the lid O-ring.

Pump is Loud

Is the noise coming from the pump housing (the front of the pump) or is it coming from the motor (the back of the pump)? A loud noise is usually the result of the bearings going out in the motor. But, the loud noise could also be the impeller somehow getting loose, moving out of place, and grinding against the pump housing. Either way, you will need to call your local pool professionals for a service call. But, with this troubleshooting technique, you can really help your local pool professionals diagnose the problem, which will perhaps reduce the "time" (length) of the service call, thus saving you money.

Is the pump sucking air? If so:

  • Make sure the level of the pool water is at the standard operating water level (half way up the skimmer).
  • Make sure that the pump and skimmer baskets are clean.
  • Make sure all of the valves are fully open.
  • Make sure that the lid O-ring is in place and that the lid is properly sealed

SAND IS ON THE FLOOR OF THE POOL

A lateral, which is positioned at the bottom of your sand filter, has either cracked or is broken, allowing sand to pass through the filter, enter the return (plumbing) lines, and enter the pool, via the return jets. Either way, all the sand has to be removed. Then, each lateral must be removed and inspected in order to determine which lateral(s) are cracked or broken. Once found and replaced, the sand has to be put back into the filter. If it has been a few years since your last sand change, use new sand-sand is fairly inexpensive, and it will save you the headache of having to do this again in the near future; new sand is typically sufficient for 4-5 years. When replacing the sand, be careful. The weight of the sand could crack or break your new (fragile) laterals, causing the same tedious and time-consuming procedure to have to be repeated. If you do the job by yourself, fill the sand filter full of water until the laterals are submerged underwater. Then, very slowly, pour the sand into the filter; the water will disperse the sand evenly. You are much better off contracting your local pool professionals who have experience handling the fragile laterals.

Other reasons for sand in the pool may include:

  • Pump may be oversized.
  • There may be too much sand in the filter.

HEATER WILL NOT HEAT

  • Is the supply (electricity) on? If not, turn it on.
  • Is the pilot light lit? If not, light the pilot light. This is only for those heaters that require a manual ignition of the pilot light
  • Are the baskets clean? If not, clean the skimmer and pump baskets. Full baskets will restrict water circulation. The pressure switch in the heater requires sufficient circulation for the heater to heat.
  • Is the filter dirty? If so, clean the filter. A dirty filter will also restrict water circulation. Again, the pressure switch in the heater requires sufficient circulation for the heater to heat.
  • Is the water level sufficient? If not, fill the pool to the standard operating water level (half way up the skimmer).
  • Are the valves open? If not, open all the valves.

A heater is often best serviced by simply continually using the heater. If the heater is not used, rust will appear, spider webs and nests may be found, and mechanical parts may wear. Use your heater-that is why you paid for the expense, yet worthwhile investment. Beyond any of the above checkpoints, call your local pool professionals for a service call on the heater. With a heater, if water chemistry is out of balance, the heat exchanger could be corroded to the point of premature failure-an expensive replacement. Monitor your water chemistry

LEAK DETECTION AT THE EQUIPMENT

Attempt to locate the source of the leak-pump, filter, heater, automatic chemical feeder, connector fitting, any threaded fitting (plug/cap, pressure gauge, air relief valve) or the plumbing. You may just need to tighten a fitting. Anything beyond something that you can hand-tighten, call your local pool professionals for a service call.

LEAK DETECTION FOR THE STRUCTURE OF THE POOL

Regardless of your pool type-concrete, gunite, shotcrete, vinyl-liner, fiberglass, or an aboveground-call your local pool professionals for a game plan of how to detect the source of the leak. They will have the best information, given the type of pool that they service on a regular basis.

THE PRESSURE GAUGE

If the pressure on your Pressure Gauge is DECREASING, you have an obstruction, which is typically full skimmer and/or pump baskets. To rectify, clean all the baskets. If there is an obstruction in the plumbing, call your local pool professionals for a service call.

If the pressure on your Pressure Gauge is INCREASING, you have a dirty filter. To rectify, once the pressure rises 8-10 psi above your standard operating pressure, clean your filter.

Sand filter or DE filter = backwash